Montevideo
The neat capital of kindness
Together with a friend from Buenos Aires, we decided to meet in Montevideo for a few days of relaxation.
The idea was to combine high quality hotels, which Uruguay does have, with distinguished gastronomy.
So, for the 2025 Easter Week, we decided to make the girls' getaway.
From Buenos Aires she took the boat service offered by Buquebus, a trip of about two and a half hours. But it happens that the company does not always fulfill the schedules, so in my case, leaving from Salta, the wisest thing to do was to fly with the connection in Buenos Aires.
Therefore, I landed on Holy Thursday at the modern Carrasco International Airport, just at dawn, when the sky had turned orange. This was how Montevideo welcomed me; the city that was founded as a fort in the early 18th century.
It is located on the bay of the same name, on the banks of the mighty Rio de la Plata.
I took an Uber that in less than an hour drove me to Hotel Montevideo, a member of The Leading Hotels of the World .
It was very early so the room was not yet available, but the reception staff offered me the use of the gym facilities, open 24 hours a day, so I could freshen up before going out to discover the city.
I got lost in the neighborhood, following the advice of the local sybarite expert @paulinafab, I visited the main signature bakeries, passing by Wild Bakey, La Resistance Boulangerie, Santé Postres y Afines, until I arrived at Estudio Café, right in front of the monumental building of the Architecture School. It was there that I had an American coffee for breakfast with a memorable cheese scon.
From there another Uber took me straight to the panoramic viewpoint that works in the City Hall of Montevideo. The idea was to make time, entertaining, until the arrival of the Buquebus with my friend on board. The rooftop is free of charge and I must point out that -even though it was a holiday- it was open. The glass elevators provide a great view of the river. When you get to the top, an almost 360-degree viewpoint allows a panoramic view of the city.
From there I could see the ship approaching the port.
Just below is the Museum of Art History, but it was closed, so I decided to walk to the historic center, along 18 de Julio Avenue, the date of commemoration of the Constitutional Oath in 1830. It is a road with numerous office buildings and commercial premises of the most varied, until you reach Independence Square, perhaps the most important of Montevideo. In its center is the monument to José Gervasio Artigas and down some stairs on the side, his very modern subterranean mausoleum.
It was then that we met my good friend Magda, who proudly introduced me to her cousin Fabi and her goddaughter Lexi, who have been living in Uruguay for years and generously served as our exclusive local guides during the tour that followed.
Several buildings stand out around the square. For its iconic architecture, undoubtedly the Salvo Palace. Also there is the Estévez Palace, protocol seat of the Executive Power, where the Government House Museum is located; on the other hand, the Gate of the Citadel, a remnant of the old wall that surrounded Montevideo in the XVIII century.
Next to Independence Square, the Solis Theater, an architectural treasure of the city, stands proudly. Of neoclassical style, it was inaugurated in August 1856. It offers a guided tour every day at 4 pm. It is one of the oldest theaters in South America.
We took the Sarandí pedestrian street and started a pleasant walk among stores, art galleries and cafes, passing by the Metropolitan Cathedral, also of neoclassical architecture, right in front of the Plaza de la Constitución or Plaza Matriz. It was the Plaza Mayor of the Fortress City of San Felipe and Santiago de Montevideo, an open public space with a large grove of trees.
Being that we went in autumn, it was a permanent to enjoy the ocher colors generated by the dry leaves staining the streets.
We continued strolling through the Old City until we reached Culto Café CV, right on the corner of Peatonal and Treinta y Tres street. A signature coffee shop in an old house. Quite remarkable.
After the break, we made our way to the Mercado del Puerto, passing by the Museo de Artes Decorativas in the splendorous Palacio Taranco, across from Plaza Zabala. Fabi highly recommended it but unfortunately it was closed for the holiday.
In the Old City there are numerous museums and cultural centers to visit, such as the Andes 1972 Museum, the National Historical Museum, Casa Fructuoso Rivera, the National Historical Museum, the Romantic Museum - Casa Antonio Montero, the Lavalleja House where the National Historical Museum is located, the Gaucho and Coin Museum, the Pre-Columbian and Indigenous Art Museum, the El Juguetero Museum, the Carnival Museum, just to name a few..
Already the streets were getting a little desolate and were beginning to show signs of greater neglect and homelessness, and we faced the lively Mercado del Puerto (Port Market). There you can have lunch in one of the many restaurants that offer traditional Uruguayan barbecue, as well as medio y medio, the local drink, a mixture of a sweet sparkling wine with dry white wine.
Nearby is the Customs building and the Escollera Sarandí.
We returned to Jacinto, the restaurant of Lucía Soria, a well-known chef in Uruguay.
Then we went to the Gurvich Museum, which exhibits -on three floors- a complete collection of José Gurvich's works, murals, oil paintings, sculptures, drawings and objects. José Gurvich -a disciple of the master Torres García- is known as one of the greatest exponents of the plastic arts in the Rio de la Plata region.
We continue to the Torres García Museum, a pioneer of constructivism. The building is a sample of Art Nouveau and -in its origins- was the famous Broqua and Sholberg bazaar. The artist stood out for his paintings that created a reality in itself. In his canvases, the orthogonal lines drawn on the basis of the golden section take center stage.
That afternoon, we concluded our walk through Montevideo's Casco Viejo by attending a guided tour of the Salvo Palace. With a duration of less than an hour, it is the only way to access and get to know the building built in 1928. At the time it was the tallest building in South America. It is an emblem of the city.
From its viewpoint you get a panoramic view of the Plaza Independencia.
When we returned to the hotel we checked in. We were assigned a room on the top floor, with a very nice view of the neighborhood.
The decoration of the hotel is remarkable. Modern, distinguished.
That night there was a downpour, so we decided -after a few drinks at the bar- to stay for dinner at the hotel's Polo Bamba restaurant. It was a wise decision because the food was delicious, both the ricotta and parmesan gnudi and the saffron risotto with grilled vegetables, which we accompanied with a very rich Uruguayan pinot noir.
The next morning, after a well-deserved rest, we were pleased with the abundant banquet offered by the hotel for breakfast. A super varied buffet plus the option of ordering egg dishes in their different variants, or granola or -even- a salmon blinis. Tremendous.
From there we took a walk to Punta Carretas Shopping, the mall located in a remodeled former prison. Then we strolled through Parque Rodó, a green space with lakes and recreation areas. We regretted not being able to visit the National Museum of Visual Arts, which contains a collection of Uruguayan art from the 19th century to the present, as it was closed for the holiday.
We crossed to Playa Ramirez, on Montevideo's famous Rambla, to put our feet in the water, a @tripticity_ tradition on any shore.
We made our way to Escaramuza, a bookstore in an unmissable old mansion. Inside there is a cool restaurant with tasty options for lunch or snacks.
It was there that we met Fabi and Lexi again, who didn't hesitate to take us to the famous Montevideo sign on the Rambla in the Pocitos neighborhood. Just across the street is the Hyatt Centric hotel, whose rooftop is recommended, but after sunset, we returned to enjoy a drink on the rooftop of Hotel Montevideo. Super cool.
Afterwards, we had a reservation at Pomelo, a restaurant with a unique open kitchen and bar.
We ordered poultry pâté with blackberry jam, feedlot carpaccio with parmesan and capers and shrimp in a very original version, with tomatoes, avocado and fries.
The next morning, being Saturday, the breakfast buffet was packed, but we still enjoyed it and agreed that it is perhaps one of the most delicious we have tasted by far.
We took an Uber to Carrasco. We had decided that we were going to stay two nights in the strategic neighborhood of Pocitos and then in this more distant one, with a vacation feel. For that night, the hotel of choice was the Sofitel Carrasco. Omnipotent and monumental, the 1920s building is an example of the Belle Époque, an emblem.
Before enjoying the hotel facilities, we took a short walk around the surrounding area and were tempted by the delicious and varied menu at Manzanar restaurant. We were welcomed with a meat broth, which whetted our appetite. We ordered a tiradito of white fish and a few pieces of sushi. Magda was also tempted with french fries, so we did not hesitate to order them. Everything was accompanied by a Uruguayan sparkling wine to match the amazing lunch.
Back at the hotel, we were surprised again with its entrance hall, its vitraux and the beauty of its interior.
On the other hand, its luxury spa had also attracted us. It was one of the reasons why we chose it. So then we spent an afternoon relaxing with friends, in its warm water pool, in its dry sauna, to finish with a relaxing massage. Everything was perfect.
In the evening, Fabi invited us to her beautiful house for an aperitif. Upon arrival, Vin treated us to a delicious torrontés salteño from Colomé, which was honored with a very entertaining chat.
Then we said goodbye and walked a few short blocks to Asencio (Bar) to close the day with some delicious tapas, crowning our weekend of friendship and gastronomy.
The next day, breakfast in the hotel's dining room with a panoramic view of Carrasco beach was another memorable one.
It was Easter Sunday and Fabi and Vin invited us to their family lunch. Upon arrival, we were flattered by the feast they had prepared. Grilled salmon, an unforgettable muhammara, a red bell pepper and walnut cream, clearly Arabic in origin, delicious, and fresh salads.
Their daughters, Lexi, Poli and Vicki were as loving as they were entertaining. It felt like being at home, with family, with people I had just met. That doesn't happen that often. And so, eating delicacies, chatting about restaurants in Montevideo, life in the city and even artificial intelligence, we enjoyed a very different and unexpected Easter lunch. The best way to close those days with my great friend.
